Saturday, July 27, 2024

Nesselrode Pie

Shopping list:
    48 oz pitted sour cherries
    8 oz chestnuts (shiny, firm, heavy)
    3 packets or 21 g gelatin
    quart cream
    quart whole milk
    1 C butter
    1 C dark rum
    9 eggs
    cake flour
    AP flour
    sugar
    powdered sugar
    corn starch
    salt
    vanilla
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113 g cake flour
113 g AP flour
1 T sugar
1 t salt
1 C cold butter
4 oz or 115 g ice cold water
6 oz dark chocolate

48 oz pitted sour cherries
400 g sugar
1/4 C dark rum
3 T powdered sugar
1 T corn starch

12 oz chestnuts
Alternatively, 6 oz roasted, peeled chestnuts
75 g sugar
1/4 C dark rum

100 g sugar
2 packets gelatin
1/2 t salt
6 egg yolks
1 1/2 C cream
2 1/2 C whole milk
(I've been lazy and used 
1/4 C dark rum

135 g sugar
6 egg whites
1 t vanilla

2 oz bittersweet chocolate
3 T cream
1/8 t vanilla

1 1/2 C cream
1/2 t vanilla or almond extract
1/16 t salt
40 g powdered sugar

Prepare 2 pie crusts: (4 hours)
Combine flours, sugar, and salt.
Cut in cold butter.
Knead in ice water just until crumbs are no longer dry.
While still cool and crumbly, book fold dough.
Cut in two, wrap tightly, and refrigerate for 2 hours.
Shape dough in pie pans and freeze at least 30 mins.
Fill with foil and baking beans.
Blind bake on lowest oven rack at 375° for about 50 mins.
Let cool a few mins and transfer to a clean pie dish.
(Discarding excess butter for cold pies gives a cleaner cut).
Coat interior with melted chocolate.

Prepare the macerated cherries: (3 hours)
In a large saucepan, combine cherries, sugar, and rum.
Cook over med-low heat, stirring every 5 mins.
If the mixture starts to boil, turn down the heat.
Cherries are ready when dark red syrup is clear; about 15 mins.
Preheat the oven to 200°.
Strain cherries and save syrup (about 2 C) for cocktails.
In a mixing bowl, cover cherries with powdered sugar and corn starch.
Spread cherries out on a baking sheet and bake 2 hours.
Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.
Syrup will keep in the fridge for up to one month.

Prepare chestnut purée: (3 hours)
Cut an "x" in each chestnut.
(I do have a gadget for this, which is much safer than using a knife.)
Soak chestnuts in water for 2 hours.
Fill a tray with water and place on the bottom rack.
Roast chestnuts above water tray at 350° for 20 mins.
Roast at 425 another 15 mins or until fragrant with burst shells.
Cover with a clean cloth for 10 mins to steam.
The chestnuts must be kept hot to loosen membranes.
Press chestnuts into towel vigorously to loosen.
Peel away shells and membranes.
Phara says:
    "Crack them like they're your enemy,
    peel them like you're a brain surgeon."
Food process with sugar.
Add rum and continue to process.
If too dense, add water, processing until smooth.

Prepare stabilized chestnut crème anglaise: (2 hours)
Place a medium mixing bowl in the freezer.
In a large saucepan, combine sugar, gelatin, and salt.
Off heat, whisk in yolks and chestnut purée.
Off heat, whisk in cream and then milk.
Cook over medium heat, stirring and scraping constantly.
Cook until crème anglaise reaches 180°.
(Use a few thermometers to get a good reading!)
Mixture will have thickened.
Blend with an immersion blender until anglaise is very smooth.
Pour into cold bowl from freezer.
Stir in the rum.
Refrigerate, stirring every 10 minutes.
(Alternatively, use an ice bath to speed up the process.)
Crème anglaise is ready once chilled and thickened, about 40 mins.
This cannot be made in advance, because if it gets too cold, it will set.

Prepare Italian meringue: (half hour)
In a small saucepan, combine sugar with about 3 T water.
Stir well and cook over medium heat.
Once sugar has dissolved and syrup starts to bubble, turn off heat.
(Syrup should be about 230°.)
In a stand mixer bowl, beat whites until soft peaks form.
Slowly pour hot syrup into beating whites.
Beat in vanilla.
Do not overbeat, or it will be difficult to fold.
Meringue should be medium stiff and silky.

Prepare stabilized chestnut chiboust: (half hour)
(Chiboust is traditionally made with crème pat instead of anglaise)
Set aside 3/4 Italian meringue.
Pour chestnut anglaise into stand mixer bowl with 1/4 meringue.
Mix slowly until smooth.
Fold together with remaining meringue.

Assemble pies: (4 hours)
Set aside 1/3 macerated cherries for decoration.
Layer chiboust into each of two pie crusts.
Sprinkle in 2/3 macerated cherries along the way.
Refrigerate 4 hours or until set.

Prepare chocolate ganache and whipped cream: (1 hour)
Chop chocolate into small pieces and place in small bowl.
Heat cream until edges bubble.
Pour cream over chocolate and cover for 5 mins.
Add vanilla and whisk well.
Let cool to thicken before piping.
In a cold stand mixer bowl, combine cream, vanilla, and salt.
Sift in powdered sugar.
Beat until voluminous but still very smooth.

Decorate pies: (half hour)
Transfer ganache to pastry bag.
Decorate both pies with a crisscross pattern.
Transfer whipped cream to pastry bag.
Pipe decorative mounds along outer edges.
Top with remaining cherries.

Best if eaten within two days.
Adapted from "Pie for Everyone," courtesy of Petra Paredez

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